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        Getting started

Foundation

There's a wonderful abundance of old adobe ruins scattered throughout the lonely places in New Mexico. Trying to reconstruct how they came to such an end can be informative. One observation that becomes apparent is a failure on the builder's part to have given the structure a proper foundation.

Think of it. If you're planning an earthbag structure - let's say 10' x 10' with eight-foot high walls - and if the bags average 25 lbs each, you'll be using approx. 1,000 bags with a combined weight of about 24,000 lbs (12 tons, or nearly 11,000 kilos). The compression of such a weighty structure may well cause differential compaction on the ground, depending on the ground's makeup (rocks here, sand there)... which may over time cause your structure to start sagging. You may not notice this until your plaster starts cracking and your doors & windows start jamming.

Your goal should be perfectly vertical walls, with the stress load being exactly perpendicular to the ground. The easiest solution is digging a trench where your walls will be, and filling it with something that won't shift or compact over time. Good, available choices include gravel, rocks, or small, broken-up chunks of concrete rubble.

How deep? It depends on the size of your structure & how solid (or mushy) your ground is, but 18"-24" (45-60cm) is a good size. If you want to dig it deeper (which might incidentally allow your first few courses to be below ground level, sitting atop your foundation material), then so much the better - doing so will increase your walls' stability. If your fill is irregularly shaped (such as rubble), it'd be a good idea to pound it with your tamper or a sledge, so the chunks will "lock" together & have less likelihood of shifting after bearing weight. Additionally, you can mix & pour concrete over your fill, adding enough water to the mix that it will seep down & fill the void spaces before it sets up.



Sifting

A good place to start once you've identified your source of dirt is to clean & sift it. At the least, you'll want to remove & pick out:
  • large sticks & branches - any pokey items that will get in the way of filling your bags (and that might risk puncturing your bags);
  • sizable rocks, clumps, and foreign objects;
  • anything substantial that might rot out over time & leave a void in your bag (wood scraps, leaf clumps); 
  • roots (that might start growing).
A simple way to do this is to construct or purchase a sifter, which is - at its simplest - a wood frame sized for a wheelbarrow (approximately 25" x 36", or 64 x 92 cm). A sheet of stiff wire screen is then stapled to it. For moderate sifting, we use one with a 1/2" (1.3cm) mesh.  

Placing the sifter over the wheelbarrow, we'll throw three or four shovelfuls on the screen at a time. Setting aside the shovel, we'll then brush the dirt/etc. across the screen (first with the shovel blade, then by hand. Gloves are a good idea). The sifted dirt falls into the wheelbarrow, while the stuff that remains can be sorted.

Rocks get tossed off to one side (useful for your trenching); wood scraps (if any) and branches & twigs get tossed off to another side, for burning or recycling; insects & worms can be gently removed, and hidden treasures are often revealed (old coins, lost items, etc.) . In my part of the country, the clay often forms into hard clods. This clay is good stuff, and I toss it into yet another pile to later tamp into dust & mix with my soil to enrich its binding qualities.

What's generally left on the screen is what we call "duff", organic material that we then pour into black plastic garbage bags for composting. What's left in your wheelbarrow should be pretty clean, well-sifted dirt.

To make plaster, you'll want to build or purchase another sifter, one with at least 1/4" (0.6cm) mesh or finer, and then run your already-sifted dirt through it for finer results. (Finer meshes will slow you down, but will be much nicer & cleaner.) You can then add water, sand, straw, and/or whatever else you like.



Planning

The bags we use are 14" x 26" (about 35.5 x 66 cm) when empty. Our pre-filled bags are filled to a standard, which allows us to provide calculations for building and transportation. Our pre-filled bags are filled about 1/2 way, and averages about 25 lbs. (about 11.3 kg) in weight. When laid out & solidly tamped down, these bags measure approximately 16" long, 12" wide, and 3" high. We maintain this standard because it allows us to provide calculations for building, and because 25 lbs is a manageable weight for most everyone.

*** Please note: If you use the same size bag, but fill them to a different standard (say, 2/3 full, or 30-40 lb), you'll find that your tamped dimensions will be different than those provided in these pages (obviously, a course of bags with a tamped height of 4" high will be 3 courses to a foot, instead of 4 courses to a foot. Likewise, a filled & tamped bag length of, say, 20" will be... well, you get the idea). Even so, you may find the below calculations useful.

Rules of thumb for basic construction (for a simple wall):

                                               Height                                                                                  Length (course)

   1 bag  3 in. high
1 bag length 16 inches long
   4 bags  1 foot high
2 bags (end to end) 32 inches long
    8 bags  2 feet high
3 bags (end to end) 48 in. (4 ft) long
    12 bags  3 feet high
6 bags (end to end) 8 feet long
    16 bags  4 feet high
9 bags (end to end) 12 feet long
    20 bags  5 feet high
12 bags (end to end) 16 feet long
    24 bags  6 feet high
15 bags (end to end) 20 feet long
    40 bags 10 feet high
18 bags (end to end) 24 feet long

*** Note: see comments on "buttresses" under Wall Length (below)


So a 5 foot high, 12 foot long wall = 20 courses (horizontal rows) of 9 end-to-end bags   /   20 x 9 = 180 bags
(not counting bags for buttressing)

OR

an 8 foot high, 36 foot long wall = 32 courses of 27 end-to-end bags   /   32 x 27 = an 8 foot high, 36 foot long wall = 
32 courses of 27 end-to-end bags   /   32 x 27 = 864 bags  (again, not counting bags for buttresses).

***  An alternate way to estimate how many bags you'll need is to consult our computation chart.
These figures are guidelines. If your wall is 35 feet long, you'd simply dump out one or more bags and use partials.

Notes on stability...

Wall Height:
Above 2 feet high, we suggest using barbed wire to lock the bags together; above 3 feet high, you should consider it mandatory. An alternative we've heard about (one we haven't tried!) is driving rebar with a sledge hammer through the bags, into the ground.

Wall Length (Buttressing):
Despite whatever care you give to leveling your foundation, and despite the stable 12" width of our dirtbags, we urge the addition of a buttress every 10-12 feet or so for free-standing walls.

The rule of thumb is 2:1; 1 foot thickness of buttress for every 2 feet of wall height. 

So a 6-foot high wall should have a 3-foot thick buttress every 10-12 feet. (The hypothetical 36-foot long, 8-foot high wall mentioned above should have 2 to 3 buttresses, each 4 feet thick, adding an extra 96 bags per buttress to the 864 bags estimated, for a grand total of 960.) Of course, the buttresses should have their own gravel or rock-filled foundation to sit upon so they don't shift.
Be safe. Be stable.

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