Foundation

There's a wonderful abundance of old adobe ruins scattered throughout the lonely places in
New Mexico.
Trying to reconstruct how they came to such an end can be informative.
One observation that becomes apparent is a failure on the builder's
part to have given the structure a proper foundation.
Think of it. If you're planning an earthbag structure - let's say
10' x 10' with eight-foot high walls - and if the bags average 25 lbs
each, you'll be using approx. 1,000 bags with a combined weight of
about 24,000 lbs (12 tons, or nearly 11,000 kilos). The compression of
such a weighty structure may well cause differential compaction on the
ground, depending on the ground's makeup (rocks here, sand there)...
which may over time cause your structure to start sagging. You may
not notice this until your plaster starts cracking and your doors
&
windows start jamming.
Your goal should be perfectly vertical walls, with the stress load
being exactly perpendicular to the ground. The easiest solution is
digging a trench
where your walls will be, and filling it with something that won't
shift or compact over time. Good, available choices include gravel,
rocks, or small, broken-up chunks of concrete rubble.
How deep? It depends on the size of your structure & how solid
(or mushy) your ground is,
but 18"-24" (45-60cm) is a good size. If you want to dig it deeper (which might incidentally
allow your first few courses to be below ground level, sitting atop
your foundation material), then so much the better - doing so will increase
your walls' stability. If your fill is irregularly
shaped
(such as rubble), it'd be a good idea to pound it with your tamper or a
sledge, so the chunks will "lock" together & have less
likelihood
of shifting after bearing weight. Additionally, you can mix & pour concrete over your fill, adding enough water to the mix that it will seep down & fill the void spaces before it sets up.
Sifting
A
good place to
start once you've identified your source of dirt is to clean & sift it. At the least, you'll want to remove & pick out:
- large sticks & branches - any
pokey items
that will get in the way of
filling your bags (and that might risk puncturing your bags);
- sizable
rocks, clumps, and foreign objects;
- anything
substantial that might rot out over time & leave a void in your
bag (wood scraps, leaf clumps);
- roots (that might start growing).
A simple way to do this is to construct or
purchase
a sifter, which is - at its simplest - a wood frame sized for a

wheelbarrow
(approximately 25" x
36", or 64 x 92 cm). A sheet of stiff wire screen is then stapled to
it. For moderate sifting, we use one with a 1/2" (1.3cm) mesh.
Placing the sifter over the wheelbarrow, we'll throw three or four
shovelfuls on the screen at a time. Setting aside the shovel, we'll
then brush the dirt/etc. across the screen (first with the shovel
blade, then by hand. Gloves are a good idea). The sifted dirt falls
into
the wheelbarrow, while the stuff that remains can be sorted.
Rocks get tossed off to one side (useful for your trenching); wood
scraps (if any) and branches & twigs get tossed off to another
side, for burning or recycling; insects & worms can be gently removed, and
hidden treasures are often revealed (old coins, lost items, etc.) . In
my part of the country, the clay often forms into hard clods. This clay is
good stuff, and I toss it into yet another pile to later tamp into dust & mix with my soil to enrich its binding qualities.
What's generally left on the screen is what we call "duff", organic
material that we then pour into black plastic garbage bags for
composting. What's left in your wheelbarrow should be pretty clean,
well-sifted dirt.
To make plaster, you'll want to build or purchase another sifter, one
with
at least 1/4" (0.6cm) mesh or finer, and then run your already-sifted
dirt
through it for finer results. (Finer meshes will slow you down, but
will be much nicer & cleaner.) You can then add water, sand,
straw, and/or whatever else you like.
Planning
The bags
we use are
14" x 26" (about
35.5 x 66 cm) when empty. Our pre-filled bags are filled to a standard,
which allows us to provide calculations for building and
transportation. Our pre-filled bags are filled about 1/2 way, and
averages
about 25 lbs. (about 11.3 kg) in weight. When laid out
&
solidly tamped down,
these bags measure approximately 16" long, 12" wide, and 3" high. We
maintain this standard because it allows us to provide
calculations
for building, and because 25 lbs is a manageable weight for most
everyone.
*** Please note: If
you use the same size bag, but fill them to a
different standard
(say,
2/3 full, or 30-40 lb), you'll find that your tamped dimensions will be
different than those provided in these pages (obviously, a course of
bags with a tamped height of 4" high will be 3 courses to a foot,
instead of 4 courses to a foot. Likewise, a filled & tamped bag
length of, say, 20" will be... well, you get the idea). Even so, you
may find the
below calculations useful.
Rules of thumb for basic
construction
(for a simple wall):
|
1 bag |
3
in. high |
|
1
bag length |
16
inches long |
|
4 bags |
1
foot high |
|
2
bags (end to end) |
32
inches long |
|
8 bags |
2
feet high |
|
3
bags (end to end) |
48
in. (4 ft) long |
|
12 bags |
3
feet high |
|
6
bags (end to end) |
8
feet long |
|
16 bags |
4
feet high |
|
9
bags (end to end) |
12
feet long |
|
20 bags |
5
feet high |
|
12
bags (end to end) |
16
feet long |
|
24 bags |
6
feet high |
|
15
bags (end to end) |
20
feet long |
|
40 bags |
10
feet high |
|
18
bags (end to end) |
24
feet long |
***
Note: see comments on "buttresses" under Wall Length (below) |
So
a 5 foot high, 12 foot long wall = 20 courses (horizontal
rows) of
9 end-to-end bags / 20 x 9 = 180 bags
(not counting bags for buttressing)
OR
an 8 foot high, 36 foot long wall = 32 courses of 27 end-to-end bags
/ 32 x 27 = an 8 foot high, 36 foot long
wall =
32 courses of 27 end-to-end bags
/ 32 x 27 = 864 bags (again,
not counting bags for buttresses).
***
An alternate way to estimate how many bags you'll need is to
consult our computation
chart.
These
figures are guidelines. If your wall is 35 feet long, you'd simply dump
out one or more bags and use partials.
Notes
on stability...
Wall
Height:
Above 2 feet high, we suggest using
barbed wire
to
lock the bags together; above 3 feet high, you should consider it
mandatory. An alternative we've heard about (one we haven't tried!) is
driving rebar with a sledge hammer
through the bags, into the ground.
Wall
Length
(Buttressing):
Despite whatever care you give to
leveling your
foundation, and despite the stable 12" width of our dirtbags, we
urge the addition of a buttress every 10-12 feet or so for
free-standing walls.
The rule of thumb is 2:1; 1 foot thickness of buttress for every 2 feet
of wall
height.
So a 6-foot high wall should have a 3-foot thick buttress every 10-12
feet. (The
hypothetical 36-foot long, 8-foot high wall mentioned above should have
2 to 3 buttresses, each 4 feet thick, adding an extra 96 bags per
buttress to
the 864 bags estimated, for a grand total of 960.) Of course, the
buttresses should have their own gravel or rock-filled foundation to
sit upon so they don't shift.
Be safe. Be stable.